What does your dream wave look like? And what makes it so perfect? Is it full of cruisy cutbacks or is it a backdoor barrel? Perhaps it’s the feeling of being wholly present and in the moment. Or the adrenaline and fear rushing through your veins. Factoring in could be the setting, or the distance traveled and journey getting there. Maybe it’s having your best mates there to see it or, better yet, the lack of a crowd to compete for it. Whatever combination of criteria that makes up anyone’s dream wave, can more than likely be found somewhere off the coast of Sumatra. Would you prefer a racy and rippable right-hand point break? Or a mechanical and playful left-hand point break? How about a heavy and hollow, high risk/ reward barrel? Before the break of dawn, our boat glided effortlessly along glassy waters. After six days of non-stop surfing, I thought I was too tired for another sunrise surf sesh… but I pulled myself out of the comfort of my bunk, curious to see where we were parking. And was I sure happy I did! The waves I woke up to see out front were better than any I’d been dreaming about. Sheet glass, head high perfection, population: the few of us that dragged ourselves out of bed before dawn. Roxie’s is my favourite right hander in the islands, and that session was my personal favourite on the entire trip up to that point! That is, only until the next session that morning… With solid south swell in the water and no wind, as good as Roxie’s was, we knew it’d be even bigger and better around the corner. All those keen hopped in our lightning fast and insanely smooth speed boat. Rolling over sizeable waves along the way, anticipation levels were high.
These heaving beasts were wider and thicker than they were tall. Before I knew it, butterflies in my stomach, I was sitting out the back waiting for the next set with the other few who also dared to face their fears. Did I mention we had the place to ourselves? With plenty of waves to go around, we took turns, hooting each other into the biggest bombs. Everyone was going nuts. We ended up with some broken boards and scarred bodies, but everyone agreed the price we paid was 100% worth it. Greenbush had officially stolen everybody’s most memorable session of the trip! That afternoon we scooted on to Macaronis – a goofy footers delight, and my ultimate dream wave. I know I’m not the only one who feels this way. It’s a machine. Tubes on the takeoff, and the rest of the wave is a playground of dreams. Any session at Macas is automatically my favourite session, so we’d saved the best for last in my book! What a day. And to think, surfing epic Roxie’s, Greenbush and Macaronis made up just one of eleven magical days aboard the Indo Satu…
So, what does your dream wave look like anyway? I reckon that whatever it is that ticks your boxes making a perfect wave, can be found on a surf charter off Sumatra. And not any charter, but the Mentawaidaze surf charters: the Indo Satu and the D’Bora! They are certainly the most beautifully crafted boats out there, and they come with all the comforts of a five-star resort. The surf guide will put you in the right spot every time, with the best waves and least crowds. You’ll eat like royalty for brekkie, lunch and dinner. The friendly crew takes too much care of you. You’ll be in good company with friends old and new... And did I mention the brand new speedy that doubles your chance of finding that dream wave you came for?
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AuthorLily Howard - San Diego native surfer girl with an ongoing affair with Macaronis. ArchivesCategories |